December 2010

Christmas & New Years in the Canary Islands off of West Africa

You just never know what will happen in a year.   Sometimes not much happens.  Other times, the year can be packed with new adventures.  In the beginning of 2010, I went to Mazatlan, Mexico on SV Gem.  Then stayed on SV Carina in LaPaz, Mexico mostly in the boat yard for two months.  Then back to Mazatlan to finish my braces for my teeth (versus braces for pants as some English people might think).  In May, I went up the USA East Coast on SV Minerva for the summer from North Carolina to Maine.  Then I traveled back home to Seattle to work for part of the year.  In November, I went to Panama for a month.  In December I went to the Gran Canary Islands of Spain off the west coast of Morocco, Africa to spend time on the catamaran SV Inspirity.   And now at the beginning of the New Year, I will be crossing the Atlantic Ocean on SV Manigua arriving in the Caribbean Islands in February. 

One rolling bay on Tenerife, Canary Islands.  The 2nd catamaran is Inspirity.

But let me back up a bit to around December 10^th when I left Panama and arrived in the Canaries.  I decided to go to the Canary Islands which are part of Spain even though they are not very close to Spain but are about 70 miles off the coast of Morocco.   The reason that I wanted to go there was that many boats use this as a jumping off point to go to Brazil and South America or on to the Caribbean.  (This is very similar to the Pacific that uses San Diego to go South, West and through the Panama Canal).  In the Canaries, they usually go west in the months of November and December.   I wanted to meet one boat in particular that sounded interesting.  It was a catamaran called Inspirity looking for crew.   It was an interesting boat with an interesting captain.  I stayed on the boat for more than a month.  In that time, my friend from Germany came to stay with me for 10 days on the boat.  It was all a wonderful time.  And my friend Maria had a great time!  Especially since she had never been on a sail boat before.  She loved laying in the trampoline while we were sailing.  It’s special on a catamaran.  You feel like you’re in the water but not getting wet.

A wider view of the bay.  The main town is a 30 minute freeway ride.

The galley is down in one of the pontoons in this 47' Lagoon model. Skipper Olivier is on the left.

The area of the Canary Islands are composed of seven different islands.  The largest island, Tenerife,  in about 800 square miles.  The roads are almost all paved or made from nice bricks.  Several of the islands have large cities with many bicycle stores, boat chandlers, etc.  The capital city has about 500,000 people and, in general, for me, was much more like a larger city in the USA or Europe.

 Teide National Park.

Very interesting rock formations with a hint of the volcano in the background.

I arrived on the island of Tenerife which is the only island with a volcano.   The skipper, Olivier, picked me up at the airport and introduced me to a French couple who were also passengers on the boat.  The next day we all drove to the volcano which consisted of a park with breathtaking rocks and views. The four of us took a day and drove about 1 ½ hours from the Marina to enjoy the natural surroundings.  The following day Olivier and I went diving.  The diving was not great but it was nice to get into the local waters.  After a few days, the French couple needed to get home to France for the holidays so we saw them off at the airport. 

The view as we came back down from the volcano.

The terraced land keeping the scarce water on the crops.

 Rocks that keep the terrace in place. 

The islands don't offer a lot of protection from the rolling ocean waves come in.  Since we were anchored in a bay and using the dinghy to get to land, getting into the dinghy to go to shore was an adventure as I was not used to such high, rolling waves.  It was apparently so entertaining that a couple decided to stop their walk, sit down and see just how we were going to manage to get all the groceries in the dinghy and ourselves without falling in.  It was rising and falling with about 6 –10 feet crests.  It was dark when we returned to the dinghy with groceries and I handed the bags to Olivier a few at a time when the dinghy was at the high point.  And when the last bag was safely in the dinghy, I waited for the high crest and climbed in.  I so much wanted to take a picture because it was like a Disney ride where you get wet in the big rubber boats but my camera would have gotten wet too.  I thought this was great fun. 

It looks very calm now but imagine this dinghy coming up to where the fishermen are standing, then trying to get yourself and groceries into it.  Without getting very wet.

The following day we went to Santa Cruz, the main city in Tenerife.  It was all so beautiful to me…much like Europe.  They said it was nothing like Europe.  But after being used to Central America, I thought it was all very much like Europe.

Santa Cruz, Tenerife, Canaria

We needed to sail over to the main island to pick up visiting guests from the airport on Gran Canary Island.  The sail took from 8am to about 6pm to arrive.  We had great winds.  The only glitch we had was when a fishing net got caught on one of the rudders and the captain put on his swimming suit and said, ‘Keep her into the wind.  See you later.”  'Oh my god, please don’t go’.  I said.  At least put a line out in case I drift away from you.  He wasn’t having any of it and just said, ‘Don’t worry.  I have everything under control.”  I wasn’t so sure. 

In front of the city.

With all the sails up, it seemed like we were doing at least  5 knots and there’s no way he could keep up with the boat if the boat went faster than him.  And I didn’t want to sail by myself with a 47’ cat and all the sails up.  But he was already gone. 

Several minutes later, he resurfaced with his knife and said, ‘OK, you can turn away from the wind again.  Let’s go.”  I was so relieved he was back on the boat.  Nothing happened but I could just imagine needing to do a real-life man over board.  I just hate it when the man overboard is the captain!

Christmas. 

A Christmas tradition is for children to bring gifts to the magicians.  The gifts are then redistributed to children that are less fortunate. The magician will ask them if they've been good during the year and then ask them what is their wish for Christmas.

This little girl has the magic genie's full attention.

A Christmas outdoor dance.  I noticed how this is similar to the sheeting that is used in the many fields in the countryside.  It helps to keep moisture in for the plants to grow.

 One of the many Christmas manger scenes or 'Belens'.  We saw about six different scenes.  The largest was made of sand on the beach.

One of the shopping districts near the marina.

A coffee shop with typical tile from Portugal.

 The marina dock in the morning.
 

In Gran Canaria, we met my friend Maria at the airport.  I hadn't seen her in 17 years since we lived together in Chile.  She flew in from Germany.  She hadn't changed much.  We had 10 days of joking and laughing.  We had such a good time! 

 On the trampoline with the sensation of being on the water without getting wet.

Maria loved to swim in the huge waves.  I would have gone with her but it was a little chilly for me.

Almost every day the sailing school had regattas.

We cooked almost every evening when she was here.  This is our famous fish soup.  Delicious.

 Captain Maria.

Favorite beach.

Christmas was special.  There were not many gifts.  There was no Christmas tree.  There were no decorations.  There wasn’t even any Christmas music.  I was banned from playing ANY Christmas music by Olivier and my friend Maria. What a bunch of scrooges!!!  Coming from Europe, they were Christmased out and didn’t want to see any of it.  So I hummed Christmas tunes, had a small, beautiful red and green poinsettia plant in my cabin and was very content.

We were invited to Jean Marie and Lina’s house for Christmas Eve dinner.  In Europe, Christmas Eve is the big celebration.  They live up in the hills from the marina and have a sail boat here on the same dock.  They hand built their house with a garden of bananas trees, papaya trees, and other fruit trees.  Jean Marie and Lina speak French and Spanish.  Maria speaks Spanish, English and German. Olivier speaks a bunch of languages.  So the bottom line is that there is not any one common language.  So you choose a language based on the majority of the group you are talking with at the moment.  It’s all very interesting and easy to switch back and forth.

Carla was one of our hosts.

After a very enjoyable evening in a house that was filled to the brim with Christmas decorations and Christmas music, which I really, really enjoyed, (Olivier and Maria could say nothing and I was enjoying their pain!!!), our hosts drove us back to the boat.  Maria insisted that we open our presents.  We couldn’t go to bed, even though it was about 1am until we opened our presents.  That is how it is done in Germany.  So we opened the presents and with more thank you’s and hugs and settled in for a good night’s sleep.

Side trip to Arucas.

She has some Christmas spirit after all.  This photo was her idea to send to her friends.

One of the town plazas in Arucas.

New Years.

Maria and I went to the beach near downtown which was a 20 minute walk to take in some sun, swim, and eat at the big buffet before the fireworks started in the evening with a peaceful walk back home to the boat.

Sunday after New Years, we went on a local cruise for the day.  Actually just around the tip of the island to a quiet bay.  Most everyone went swimming and Olivier made his famous paella. 

 A day trip to the mountains and area villages with Lina and Carla.

Chairs and crests depict each area of the islands.

One relief, crest and picture represented each island.

 In the mountains for a hike.  It was cooler up there.

Three Kings Day or 'Reyes Magos'.

On January 5th the three kings arrived via boat and there was a parade that evening.  The following day was a holiday.  This marks the end of the Christmas festivities.

The kids were waiting with their sacks to fill candy that was tossed from the people and floats in the parade.

 They had the technology down pat for carrying large objected in the air. 

There were many people dressed in Arab type costumes.

Each king came on his own camel.  It's a smelly ride for sure.

December, 2010

Happy Holidays!!!

November, 2010

Beautiful Diversity in Panama

Because Panama is so beautiful, there were just too many colorful pictures to choose from.  So I've I posted more than usual.  

Panama was interesting to me because of it’s diversity of people, plants and nature.  Panama runs East and West between North and South America.   There are oceans on both sides of the country, rain forests in the mountains, tiny red and green frogs, boa constrictors, quetzal birds (more than 1,000 different birds for that matter), beautiful greenery, hillsides of coffee plants, beaches, and of course, the Panama Canal.  This time I wouldn’t be transiting the canal.  I’ll wait to do that on a sailboat.   

A tour book said it well, “a blond wife and kids from an American businessman, Shopkeepers from India, Korean crew off a tuna boat, Blacks descended from freed or escaped slaves (Cimarrones); South American shoppers, Emberá Indians from the Darien, a Panama Canal pilot, Japanese bankers, merchants with Central European origins possibly finding refuge from Hitler, French sailors with red pompoms on their hats, San Blas Indians, women in the Indian costume."  And that is just the Canal area.  When you go away from that area, you find many more Indians, criollos and mestizos.  In other countries I visited, the different groups were much more separated.  But not here.  

 The surprisingly large city of Panama City with it's many sky scrapers.

There are three areas where most people visit and like to spend time in Panama.  The first is the San Blas Islands South of the Canal on the Atlantic side (near the big boat on the map below).  Most sailboats stop there on their way through the canal or to Columbia.  I didn't get down to this region on this trip.  Second, Bocas del Toro borders Costa Rica on the Atlantic side and is near the yellow X on the top left. Bocas is a charming, little Caribbean island village. Most people come here to enjoy the beautiful beaches with warm water swimming, rain forests, surrounding mangrove islands and some snorkeling. This is where I spent a week on Dances with Dragons enjoying the islands before I went  land traveling. And finally, Boquete/David is near the bottom yellow X.  David is a small town even though it is the second largest city in Panama.  Boquete is a one hour local bus ride up into the hills from David at 3000 feet so it has a cooler, pleasant temperature.  There are also about 20,000 foreigners living in this area.

There are many different Indian tribes living apart from the rest of the population in villages.  They often come to town to buy supplies and socialize with other Indian members.  In Bocas, they wear tiny beads that cover their arms and legs from the knees to their ankles.  In David/Boquete, they wear solid colored dresses with contrasting bric-a-brac.  

The national Panamanian costume worn for celebrations is colorful with distinctive hats for men, beads shaped like flowers for women’s hair, and full colorful skirts that were worn for the many festivities and parades that happen in November.  November was a month of celebrations with independence from Columbia and also from Spain.  There are many parades and festivities. 

Hot sauce!!!

Bocas del Toro

Just like the house boats on Lake Union in Seattle.  Well, not quite. 

Aside from the Indian people, other people were brought in from other countries to help build the canal.  Their descendants are distinct among the population.  Besides North America and Europe, there are many Chinese and East Indians, and Africans that came to work here.  About 72% of the population is a mix of all these groups called Mestizos.  Some folks are extremely tall.  Many have distinct Asian eyes.  It’s all quite a blend.

One week on Dances with Dragons and the mangroves in the background.

 Looking over some antique local fire trucks.

 Over to the island of Bastamientos with beautiful beaches, wild life, and a gathering place for body surfing and camaraderie.

Red Frog Marina in the background with taxi boats on the dock to get to the island.  We arrived by sail boat.

 

Taxis with proud owners.

 The very tiny red frog.  See him on the circled leaf?

 An extreme close up of the red frog.

 A very small baby boa constrictor.  It was only about 3" in width in this coil.  I love my new camera!

 Local transportation used by the Ngobes Indians. The boats (cayucos) are made from hollowed out trees and are very unstable because of the curved bottoms. 

 A longer cayuco with a motor.

A flowering banana tree.

  Local restaurant / store / taxi stop.

 Cabanas for rent.

 

 Island taxi travel.

Waiting for the water taxi.

  Paradise.

It’s the rainy season now which means almost every morning there is sun with a couple of hours of rain in the afternoon.   The water temperature is warm at about 80-85 degrees.  Nice.

It was a special day in Bocas del Toro (Population 10,000).  It was the day they celebrated their city and provence.  The parade started at 8am and didn't stop until 9pm.

Girls with their moms waiting their turn to march in the parade.

 The littlest drummer.

One of the many hostels in Panama on Bocas.

 

Full color skirts are the traditional dress of Panama.

 The traditional beaded head dresses of Panama. 

The drummer is wearing a traditional Panama hat leading the band.

 Toward the end of the evening the older groups would march at the speed of about a block an hour.  I don't know how they lasted.

The first leg of the journey to leave Bocas to go to David was by water taxi.

To get to David, I took a 45 minute boat ride from Bocas Island to the mainland, a 5 minute taxi ride to the van, a 6 hour van ride, and finally, a 1 ½ hour bus trip  up in the mountains of Boquete.  It’s beautiful up here.  White water rafting, mountain climbing, waterfalls, but I preferred just to mostly relax and go back down to David for my dental appointments.  I have some dental bone grafting that I need to have completed. 

 

Boquete, up in the mountains at 3500 feet or 1000 meters. It's main street runs about 6 blocks.

  

Below, the heavy mist clouds touching the tops of the mountains and the coffee plants.

 Flowers and plants grow so easily here with even warm temperatures all year around.

Walking in the hills with Kimberly.  We had fun together for about 4 days before she headed south to the Canal area.

A golf course for mostly expatriates with houses that remind me of those in California.

A trip to the rustic hot springs complete with a half mile walk in the mud.  'Cheetah' is our greeter.

She likes to play with all the hot tubbers.

And her owner who collects $2 to use the hot springs.

Getting all the crusty trekking dirt off.  Ahhhh......

Ngobe-Bugle Indians selling hand sewn molas in the town square.  The women make and wear their native Guaymi dresses almost exclusively while the men wear more traditional shirts and jeans.

The Indians live in their own villages and are governed by their own customs but freely intermingle with people outside their groups for shopping and social activities.

The next celebration was Panama's independence from Spain with another parade going from 8am until 11pm.  Three large portable discos also played booming music into the wee hours of the morning. 

Colorful vendors selling grilled chicken pieces on a stick.

More grilled chicken with another example of a Guaymi Indian dress in the village center.

My home away from home.  The sound of the stream drowned out the sounds of the loud disco and traditional music which played until 4am.

With my dentistry done, I was free to go to Costa Rica for two days as my flight left from San Juan.  San Juan was a beautiful 7 hour bus ride through the coffee growing hills.   I haven't been to San Juan in 14 years and it has changed.  It's quite dangerous to walk the streets at night now.  It was very eerie being downtown because it didn't look dangerous at all.  Our taxi driver told us two other drivers had been killed the week before. 

I met up with Dan who also stayed at the last hostel I was at and was traveling in the same direction so we joined company touring around Costa Rica. We decided to stay in the small town of Alajuela nearer to the airport that was safer at night.  But even there, they warned us to take a $1 taxis after dark and not walk the six blocks to our hostel.

With Panama being much safer in the cities, Costa Rica was even more green than Panama.  The temperature was also slightly cooler which was very welcome.  Here is Dan enjoying a 'typical' breakfast.  There were a lot of tasty rice and bean combinations with eggs.

A 45 minute bus ride to Sarchí where they are famous for making hand painted carts which were pulled with oxen for transporting goods.  This is one of their plazas with an over-sized cart on display.

 

 An iguana from Costa Rican post card.