Mid March, 2012 
Visiting the Leeward Caribbean Islands


A got an invitation to sail on a 38' catamaran with skipper Peter and crew Marcy.   We started in St. Maartin stopping along the way at Saba (snorkel only), Nevis (anchor ony), and then exploring the islands of the French speaking Guadaloupe & The Saints, Dominica, French speaking Martinique, St. Lucia and finally Bequia.   We did all this in a month's time.  Definitely worth a trip back...or two.


This is what I saw:

Montserrat, English speaking
We passed on this island with the ashes of this active volcano spewing grey ash all over the boat.  I had to go inside because I couldn't breath  The skipper did it because he had never had his boat covered with volcano dust before!
Guadeloupe, French speaking
Pointe-a-Pitre
A sweet little town.



Guadeloupe, French speaking
Deshais
Making music at a beach bar.
Peter going crazy at the chocolate factory.  Can you tell?
How do I look as a local?
The Saints, French speaking
This was my favorite island.
A typical dining/living room.


It was all so beautiful.
Hill view.
Dominica, English speaking

 Martinique, French Speaking

The church steeples and market place welcome you.

There's the 38' catamaran.


This is the town square.



A chateau not too far from the little village.


 St. Lucia, English speaking

This courtyard was used for selling slaves and the French also used their guillotine for punishment.












One way of getting lobster is to buy them.
The view as we leave St. Lucia.
 Bequia, English speaking
A very small laid back island.
It was very noticeable that almost every island that the English governed was impoverished.  
The people of the French islands fared much better.

Early March, 2012 
OK, Let's Go!
The Beach Downtown San Juan, Puerto Rico
Old San Juan
A skipper asked me several times to sail with him from Norfolk, VA to the Caribbean. He really wanted me to go because I was the person with the most experience cruising. The troubling part was that he had about 5 crew on his 50’ boat with no water maker.  Six people living on a boat is not that much fun much less with a shortage of water.  I declined the trip.

Several months later, he again asked me to join the boat.  It was now in Puerto Rico going to the Caribbean Islands and he had less crew.  He said I would have a great time.  So I flew to Puerto Rico.  Once on the boat, there was an air of discontent with two distinct groups of people…the skipper and the crew.  They seemed totally separate and the crew wanted to mutiny.  It was not a happy boat.  I was given a salon bunk out in the open with no place to put any of my things.  It was not a good living arrangement nor would the lack of positive energy be fun.  Then the captain told me there was a slight change in plans.  The boat was going to Panama and then bashing up to San Francisco against the current the entire way.  So no Caribbean trip and a horrible trip instead to a destination that I didn’t want to go.  Woops.

So after one night on the boat, and fortunately it was at the dock, I made arrangements to stay on a 50’ Swan sail boat down the dock while I regrouped.  I had the good fortune of being invited on a 38’ catamaran in St. Martin going down the Caribbean Islands toward Trinidad.  I jumped at the chance and flew to St. Martin.

I had several days to enjoy downtown San Juan, Puerto Rico as the marina was right there.  I had been there 25 years ago and it was just as lovely today as it was back then.
Old San Juan
Hat shop for stying while dancing salsa.
Paseo de la Princessa by the water.
Live music with salsa dancing on Sunday afternoon.  Everyone dances!
The fountain at the end of the paseo with a welcome shower.
A famous creole restaurant  - Raices, 
eating 'mofongo' and 'mojado raices'.  Delicious! 
The wall for defending the coastline during the 17th and 18th centuries.
The cemetary is just below.
Outside the museum kids play in the jumping fountains.
The cemetery, morrow and coastline.
Museo de Las Americas.  Definitively work a visit.
An interesting shaker.
Native American Ceremony Costume.  The size is enormous!
Costumes
 
This costume head appeared to be of painted wood.  
It must have been heavy but it was or ornate and exotic.
February, 2012 
Nicaragua, Almost Not Here
The beach of no return

I came close to dying.  No joke.  I was swimming in the Pacific Ocean west of Leon, Nicaragua being the only guest in a hostel on a very quiet beach.  It was around sunset when the heat was not so intense that i went for a swim.  The owner of the hostel also came out after me to swim but stayed closer to shore.  It was when he went back to the hostel that I realized I was out a little too far.  The sun was going down.  Now I was the only one in the water or on the beach.

I tried to touch the bottom.  Too deep.  So I started to swim in.  After a while I looked to see how much ground I had covered.  None.  Now I started to panic a little.  Don't panic I thought, that won't help anything.  But shit!  The sun is going own and no one is anywhere around!  So I swam again with the waves going toward the beach.  After a while I checked the shore line.  I had gained nothing.  Same place  I wasn't getting anywhere.  So I thought, what now?

About twenty minutes had now passed.  I was starting to get tired as the waves were pounding on me from behind.  I couldn't watch out for them and swim at the same time because it took too much energy.  But I had to because I was swallowing water.  Relax I thought.  I have to reserve as much energy as possible.

A person was running along the beach.  Great!  I'll just yell.  I screamed and waved.  Nothing.  I tried whistling but I couldn't whistle very loud with all the water in my mouth and hands.  I thought maybe I saw someone standing near the palm trees on the beach so I waved and waved the the person didn't move.  It was probably a tree or a bush.  No one saw me or heard me.  I was totally alone.  I had to figure a way to get in by myself.

I thought about my options.  I knew if the hostel owner would miss me, it would take at least an hour or more.  He could then go down the beach to a fisherman who had a wooden boat which would need to get over the large set of waves, and then start searching for me in the dark.  I would have to float for hours and I was getting tired.  It seemed dismal at best.  The waves were taking my energy.

Before I got in the water, I noticed that the current was going a little bit south so I decided to swim south.  I swam changing my strokes to keep my energy up, ducking waves, trying to relax but still I stayed in the same place.  So I tried to swim north.  Same thing.  I knew about rip tides from swimming in San Diego so swimming farther out to sea was a good option, but when you're getting weak and it's getting dark, swimming farther out took more courage than I could muster.

I had heard that we have different exits in our life.  A time when we can choose to leave this plane of reality.  We can choose if we want o move on or live.  So a that moment, I called no, 'No exit!  No exit!  I don't want to leave.  It's not my time.'

That's when an idea came to me.  Be like a surf board.  Imagine yourself on top of the water and glide in.  First try, it didn't seem like I was getting anywhere.  One more try.  Now it seemed like maybe I was moving.  several more tries I was actually covering ground toward the beach.  I could finally touch again!  Of my God, literally, I'm not going to die right now.  Once I was past the last wave, I staggered onto the beach.  I was so grateful to be on dry sand!

I went back to my room, took a shower and thought over what had just happened.  I was very tired and went to be early at 9pm but couldn't sleep.  When something like this happens to you, there is a lot of adrenaline running through your body.

Today is the day after.  I still feel tired and life seems a little surreal.  I have returned to the city from the beach.  No, I didn't go swimming again, I'll leave that for another time.  In my hostel room in Leon with clean sheets and a fan blowing on me, I am happy to be able to write about this and happy to be on this earth.

A post script:  I often swim with a little child's inflatable tube tucked under my swim suit just in case.  I just bought another one.